In 2007, Mandrare River Camp was opened as the first all-inclusive high standard camp in Madagascar by British-based Madagascar Classic Collection (MCC), a high-end provider of fully escorted tours. Today it offers refined safari accommodation to guests staying in just nine luxury tents overlooking the scenic Mandrare River. Fully solar powered and self-sufficient, the camp is an excellent base for exploring the unique local attractions.
Mandrare is located in the temperate southeast of the island, a region with its own unique features, most notably the spiny forest where octopus trees compete with every other form of vegetation for which can have the most impressive spikes and thorns. It’s also home to an impressive array of lemurs, birds, chameleons and baobab trees. The most convenient way to arrive here is by scheduled charter flight to an airstrip just five minutes from the camp. The alternative is to fly into Fort Dauphin then take the three-hour drive to the camp.
The camp, sheltered under tamarind trees, extends along a ridgetop overlooking the grand Mandrare River, though it dries to a trickle towards the end of the dry season. The outdoor dining area adjoins the outdoor bar and lounge and both offer river views. Nearby, the pool is a great place to cool down after excursions, with a panoramic view of the river and surrounds.
From the manager greeting you upon arrival with cocktails and cool towels to detailed briefing from your guide throughout your stay, the level of comfort and service will be familiar to anyone who has stayed in luxurious African camps.
On Safari
Excursions are individually tailored, and according to the season, but largely consist of a 4WD drive to the start of walking trails of varying length but little difficulty, over largely flat terrain. For excursions we have our own guide, a park ranger and a driver.
A great introduction to the area is a drive or (depending on the season) boat ride across the river to the Sacred Gallery Forest of tamarind trees where Ringtailed lemurs (King Julien of the Madagascar movie) stride through the forest or forage along the sandy river’s edge. Competing for your attention are the Verreaux’s sifaka, the “dancing lemurs” who move across the ground in graceful hops with their hands held high before performing incredible leaps into tree branches. With luck, you may find chameleons perfectly still on branches, relying on their camouflage to remain undetected.
Photographers are going to love Ifotaka Spiny Forest where lemurs can be seen moving through spikey Octopus trees, perfectly silhouetted against the eggshell blue sky or nocturnal lemurs perversely sleeping on centimetre-long spikes in the crook of a tree. A full-day drive towards the coast leads to Lake Anony, home to flocks of greater flamingoes and other saltwater birds framed against towering sand dunes. A visit to the village and school of Ifotaka (a school sponsored by MCC) is a great introduction to the locals and their customs – the kids will all want you to take their photos then show them because the village’s Antandroy shaman forbids the use of mirrors until they are married or in their twenties.
Sundowners under an impressive corridor of baobab trees is a great way to end the day, while being entertained by dancers from the nearby village. A night walk lets you observe the shift change of lemurs as the diurnal lemurs bed down and nocturnal lemurs like the White-footed Sportive lemur and tiny Grey-brown Mouse lemurs emerge, looking for their next meal.
Camp experience
Each expansive tent of Mandrare River Camp offers mix of modern amenities and hand-crafted Madagascan design elements, such as natural wood, rich textiles, and handcrafted décor, a very comfortable four-poster king-sized bed with elegant mosquito net. The spacious stone bathroom delivers a spa-like feel with a full range of toiletries.
The tastefully-decorated tents with dramatic thatched roof, sits on a wooden platform that extends out to a private deck overlooking the river. Wifi is available in some public areas but doesn’t extend to the tents and it’s reasonably fast. The camp is closed January to March, the wet season. Children under 4 stay free while those under 16 who stay with their parents are charged at 50 per cent and there are child-friendly menus.
The dining experience
Mandrare’s open-aired dining enjoys views over the tree-lined river and inviting pool area. The rustic yet sophisticated dining spaces offer a relaxing bar area and fire pit, with Individual tables and service. After filling out a pre-departure list of our preferences for both food and drinks, we’re served our favourite South African wines and very well prepared and presented meals.
Some excursions are full day so lunch is a picnic before returning to camp for sundowners. Lunch at camp is often a barbecue. The camp is small enough that guests quickly come to know each other, often over a drink, and may join tables to discuss the highlights of the day. Overall, the standard of cuisine is more hotel than camp and the fine presentation was admirable.
Overall experience
Madagascar Classic Collection caters for experienced travellers who love African safaris and want the same level of luxury and expertise as they have found there with the bonus of Madagascar’s completely different wildlife and nature experience. This all-inclusive camp perfectly fulfils those goals where every day is filled with remarkable wildlife plus rich Malagasy village culture and the evenings are spent enjoying excellent food and wine and the good company of like-minded staff and travellers.
The wildlife wildly exceeded expectations with different lemurs close at hand every time we ventured into the bush. It was fun to see many different baobabs in their home setting, some looking like Australia boabs that have been to Weight Watchers. A surprise was the fascinating Spiny Forest with endless bizarre spikey, thorny or prickly vegetation.
How to book
For more information, please contact your favourite travel agency, or for advice, contact Herbie Rosenberg at Africareps, who represents Madagascar Classic Collection for Australia and New Zealand –herbie@africareps.com. Further information can also be sourced on the Madagascar Classic Collection website https://www.madaclassic.com/.
For more on Mandrare River Camp visit www.madaclassic.com.
For more on Madagascar, check out the Focus on Madagascar feature.
All images are credited to David McGonigal. The writer travelled as a guest of Madagascar Classic Collection. This review is his opinion.
About the Author
David McGonigal has been reporting his extensive travels around the world for decades including seven years riding a motorcycle around the world twice, 20 years apart. From flying a MiG21 in Slovakia, rafting the Zambesi and interviewing the Dalai Lama in Dharamsala he has sought the exotic. Africa has been his long held passion: from 4WD in Namibia, gorillas in Rwanda to the best southern African game lodges.
