It’s hard to beat an African safari game drive … until you try a safari on the water.
When most people picture an African safari, they see dirt tracks, open-sided vehicles and a lot of bouncing around.
What they don’t usually imagine is gliding … sometimes with a drink in hand … around hippos popping their heads out of the water to see what’s happening, while elephants swim close by and crocodiles sun themselves like prehistoric ornaments on the bank.
Welcome to the magic of a safari on the water.
I am the Chobe River, with Botswana on one side and Namibia on the other. I’m checking out two different types of water safaris run by the Zambezi Queen Collection – Ichingo Chobe River Lodge and the Chobe Princess.
They share the same river, the same wildlife and the same daily rhythm with morning and afternoon safari cruises led by expert guides … but the experience feels different.
Ichingo is a land-based lodge with front-row river views and the chance to set out each day to explore the river.
The Chobe Princess is a floating “lodge” that glides through the landscape.
Deep impact on wildlife
Safaris by boat have one huge advantage – a permanent water source that acts like a magnet for wildlife.
In the dry season, you’re almost guaranteed to see elephants, buffalo, impala, baboons, sometimes even big cats coming down for a drink.
In the wet season, which has just started during our visit in December, animals don’t have the same urgent need for water from the one source, so sightings can be less frequent.
Except for hippos and crocodiles … they’re always around, I’m told.
But I am optimistic we will see more because our guides feel the same way. They are the experts. They follow the river, read the signs and see what nature decides to reveal.
And it’s a lot.
Elephants are the undisputed stars. There’s even a bay with well-worn tracks and a well-scraped mineral pit named after them.
Entire herds gather at Elephant Bay to drink, cool off and sometimes even swim right across the river, their trunks held high like snorkels.
It’s one of the most reliable places to see them … usually.
For two days we see everything else – especially baboons and impala who live in a flat-mate type arrangement where they co-exist. It’s a symbiotic relationship where, armed with different ways to detect danger, they look out for each other. It all seems to work well until there’s not enough food and the baboons eat baby impalas. Thankfully we don’t see that.
It takes us five safari attempts but finally the heavens open and deliver five herds of elephants – all at the same time and all along the same stretch of river.
Watching them come over the rise and run to the water is comical. Seeing babies play and being taught how to squirt water is pretty special.
Hippos are everywhere. The guides have a job avoiding them because they suddenly rise from the riverbed. In the late afternoon, they haul out of the river to graze on grasslands, especially Sedudu Island, and it’s only then you realise how enormous they are.
An adult hippo eats about 40kg of grass a night.
Crocodiles are also everywhere, sleeping on shore or lurking just beneath the surface, eyes and nostrils barely visible. They are fascinating and a very good reason why this is not the place to swim.
Bird lovers’ dream destination
There are more than 450 recorded bird species in this region and you don’t need to work hard to see them.
Five standouts for avid twitchers include:
African fish eagle, Malachite kingfisher, carmine bee-eater, saddle-billed stork and the African jacana.
Fishing
Fishing is a big part of life on the Chobe. We pass many local fishermen in tiny canoes with rods or setting nets – in the water! They look like bait for the massive crocs.
Going fishing is another one of the experiences offered. Catfish are common and huge, but the prize catch are tiger fish – aggressive, fast and armed with terrifying teeth. Another reason not to take a dip.
All of these experiences are possible at both Ichingo and on the Chobe Princess. The only decision you have to mke is how you want to see them.
Ichingo Chobe River Lodge
Ichingo has a really casual, welcome feel. Every day we head out with our guide, Success. He has a lot to live up to with a name like that, but it doesn’t take long to prove just how good he is.
In fact all the staff are warm, capable and quietly brilliant, often bringing you treats you hadn’t realised you wanted yet.
Leaving the river lodge is no small feat – though Success makes it look easy.
The boat journey involves heading upstream, navigating strong currents, weaving past rocks and the occasional hippo.
Each time we leave, we look up at our glamping tent perched high above on the riverfront. It’s tucked into lush greenery with views across to a small island that regularly hosts a hippo and crocodiles lounging in the sun.
The accommodation
Ichingo has eight elevated safari tents, each positioned for privacy and river views. Inside they are spacious and practical – a big, comfy bed, huge ensuite bathrooms, plenty of airflow through the fold-down tent flaps and a deck that’s perfect for sitting and watching the river do its thing. It’s also the favourite spot for the local water monitor to come and say hello.
This is glamping done properly; unfussy but comfortable and in tune with the environment.
Facilities and atmosphere
The central lodge area sits right on the riverfront with a relaxed lounge and communal dining space. It’s the natural gathering point in between safaris where tales are shared about fish catches and wildlife sightings.
There’s also a tiny plunge pool – minus the river beasts with pointy teeth.
Dining
Meals are hearty, fresh and generous from continental breakfasts plus eggs made to order, to casual lunches and delicious dinners.
Chobe Princess
Laid-back luxury with regular pops of adrenalin … that’s the best way to describe this three-day river cruise.
I’m on Chobe Princess One (there are three), managed by the ever-smiling Gavin Chisambo. It feels like a gentle expedition; a blend of relaxed luxury and adventure.
The accommodation
This three-deck houseboat hosts a maximum of 10 guests (12 if travelling with children). Cabins are spacious, modern and designed with large windows to bring the river views inside.
My cabin, on the bottom deck at the front of the boat, has a private balcony. We can sit outside and watch what’s coming along the river and when we anchor, we have a front-row seat to any wildlife that might wander past.
Most cabins are located on the bottom level but there is also a top-level cabin right next to the bridge.
Life on board
The middle deck, with walls of glass, is designed for panoramic views, communal relaxation and entertainment. There are lounges, the dining table and kitchenette where the coffee station and open bar take pride of place.
Outside on this level are day beds, open-air seating and even a spa bath.
Dining is a serious highlight. Chef Christina turns out impressive three-course meals for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Gavin whips up the daily cocktail (or mocktail) after our last safari. It feels like we’re cruising from one feast to the next.
Safaris and activities
Twice a day, we head out on smaller, faster safari boats with our guide, Obert, whose favourite saying is: “Let’s go see what nature offers us today.”
We’re treated to elephant, impala, baboon, warthog, hippo and crocodile sightings. And hundreds of birds … so much wildlife it becomes almost expected.
But we don’t even need to leave the Princess to be among all the action.
When we spot elephants crossing the river, our captain just stops the boat so we can take it all in.
When we see dark grey rocks lining the shore in the distance, he gets close enough to show us they are actually hippos resting before hauling out to graze. They look up, sometimes grunt to each other but don’t seem bothered by our presence.
We have the best view of life on the river – no matter what time of the day.
We even try a spot of fishing – despite the possibility of hooking a croc. We do catch a few of ferocious tiger fish – then gingerly release them while avoiding their saw-like choppers.
A highlight is the chance to visit a local village, meet residents, learn about daily life, fishing traditions (women are not allowed to fish as it’s too dangerous), and how they have adapted to life with elephants. There’s dancing, a small craft market and a sense of genuine connection.
So which one do you choose?
That really depends on where you want to lay your head at night … on land or on the water … in a glamping tent under a forest canopy or in a cabin on a houseboat.
Both offer expert guiding on amazing water safaris to very similar places along the Chobe River. Both focus on what you can see and do.
Both have fabulous staff who do what ever it takes to make you happy and the dining experience is equally delicious at both properties
Ichingo suits travellers who like to be grounded in the one place and enjoy their luxury dressed in a casual jacket.
It’s a 5-star experience with a slightly more adventurous feel and a lodge atmosphere where some time is shared with other guests, but where you can escape for your own private time.
Chobe Princess suits travellers who like the journey to be part of the experience. It offers laid-back luxury with gentle pops of adrenalin and no “stiffness”.
It suits those who like to keep moving and prefer to wake up each morning to a different view.
It has a more social atmosphere where guests quickly become friends.
It’s a tough choice but, if you can’t choose, do what we did and experience both.
Decision made!
How to book
Booking both Ichingo Chobe River Lodge and the Chobe Princess cruise can be done with the Zambezi Queen Collection.
Website: www.zqcollection.com
Email: info@zqcollection.com
Phone: +27 (0)21 715 2412
Disclaimer: The writer Carolyne Jasinski stayed as a guest of Zambezi Queen Collection. All words and images are her own.
